HORT 281 :: Lecture 34 :: TYPES AND STYLES OF ORNAMENTAL GARDENS

TYPES AND STYLES OF ORNAMENTAL GARDENS
Types of gardens - I - formal and informal gardens
        

Man’s eternal desire is to make his living place like that of a paradise.  The geometrical design of the earlier dwellings when man came out of caves lead to orderliness as well as provided life security.  But it lacked the raw nature around him inside the dwelling.
FORMAL STYLE
         The gardens of Greece and Rome assured an emotional security though their Formal style.  The Persian, Moorish gardens of Spain and Moghul gardens were also of the same kind and were strictly formal, symmetrical and geometrical resembling a carpet.
         The Italian renaissance garden was having intricate geometric designs, sheared trees, trimmed hedges and edges to create formality.
         The impact of formalism influenced the French and British gardens also in the form of parierre, the much divided flower beds.
         The Moorish garden of Spain also had the impact of Moghul’s architecture and they were formal and geometrical though Moorish gardens were exclusively meant to beautify patios of large mansions.
The key features of formal design are

1. Plan is made on the paper and land is selected accordingly.
2. The plan is symmetrical with square, rectangular and roads cut at right angles.
3. It had a sort of enclosure or boundary.
4. Flower beds also have geometric designs as in carpets.
5. The arrangement of trees and shrubs are necessarily geometrical and kept in shape by trimming and training.
6. Other features like fountains, water pools, cascades, etc. are used for further attraction.

Demerits

1. Formal gardens have no ‘secrets’ and the element of surprise is lost.
2. However, attractive focal points at terminal and intersecting points of paths and roads are provided to make the formal garden effective.
3. Present day home gardens are laid out in formal design only at the frontage.

INFORMAL STYLE

1. Hindu, Buddhist and Japanese garden laid no emphasis on formality.
2. Woodlands (vanams) and running water (streams and rivers) was the main feature around which the garden was created in natural way.
3. Brindavan of Lord Krishna was a woodland.
4. Every temple was provided with irregular shaped lotus tanks.  (Latter on such tanks was given masonry boundary either rectangular or square).
5. Japanese developed an intensely national and naturalistic style of its own.  It is in Japanese garden, the asymmetric balance has been perfected.
6. The impact of industrial climate drove the Britishers to opt for natural gardens latter

         The further the man is isolated from nature (due to industrial revolution) the deep is the longing to go back to nature.  The industrialized cities became concrete jungles with no flavour and aroma of nature and there was emptiness in human life.  To avert this, natural gardens was given impetus.

1. The nature’s projection of mountains, oceans, rivers and lakes on a larger canvas of earth’s surface is informal with all its grandeur.  Such grandeur is mimicked in informal gardens omitting the untamed, disastrous and violent side of nature.
2. Lanchlot ‘capability’ Brown (1716-83):  She emphasized the use of coloured flower and foliage, tree form, etc. in natural style.
3. The cottage gardens of UK had the utility with fruits, vegetable and herb plants as well as the beauty that spans from its harmony with surrounding rural scenery.

Key feature of informal style/natural style

1. This style reflects naturalistic effect of total view and represents natural beauty.
2. It is contrast to formal style.
3. Plan is asymmetrical according to the land available for making the garden.
4. Smooth curvaceous out lines are more appropriate.
5. Water bodies are more irregular in shape.
6. Hillock are made, water falls provided, lakes and islands, cascades, rocks,  shola and a rustic hutment are provided to create rural effect. Appropriately grouped plants provide living quality and they are not trimmed.

SPECIAL TYPES OF GARDENS - I - ROOF GARDEN AND VERTICAL GARDEN
Roof Garden
Roof gardening is one of the best ways towards fulfillment of this passion. Roof often are decorated with potted ornamentals, both flowering and foliage. The number of such plants may be small or large. These may be arranged systematically or carelessly. In strict sense this is not roof gardening. A roof garden is one which has close resemblance with the garden on the ground with various features, like lawn, flower bed, etc., laid out tastefully according to the principles of balance and harmony to create beauty. Main difference is in scale; the roof garden is smaller both in expansion and height.
Types
Roof top gardens may be private or cooperative in nature. When the garden is constructed on a private building, usually under single ownership, it is private in nature.
Private roof gardens may be owned by an individual or by an institution, like hotel, bank, office or other such establishments. Nowadays multistoried apartment buildings are coming up. Here, the number of owners is many and all can claim a share on the roof space. If a garden is established on the roof of such buildings, its ownership will be considered cooperative in nature.
The type of planning, gardening and problems associated with cooperative roof gardens are largely different from those of privately owned roof gardens. Under private ownership the making and maintenance of the roof garden is shaped according to the wish of the single owner, his taste, his financial ability and the type of use this garden is put to. Since, under cooperative ownership individuals vary regarding these aspects, a simpler design and management have to be worked out to suit the fancy of each individual owner.
Suitability of the roof
A roof garden puts considerable weight on the roof. The strength of the roof to bear this load is the first consideration before making a start. The best thing is to plan the engineering aspects of a new building to impart enough strength so that the load of the garden on the roof can be carried through without the danger of damage. Since the concept of gardening on the roof is comparatively new in India, this aspect had not been considered while constructing the old buildings. The planning of gardening under these two different situations will be different to a large extent.
Drainage and water proofing
In every roof, the drainage aspect is taken care of during the construction of the building. Hence, drainage should not pose a problem unless it is disturbed during garden construction. Roofs are preferably made waterproof during construction. But this water proofing takes care mainly of the rain water. But if gardening is done on the roof directly, the constantly moist soil is likely to damage the roof. Hence, arrangement for additional waterproofing should be made.Choosing the stretch of the roof, where the construction of the building has been made with an eye for the roof gardening, the whole roof may be utilized for developing the garden. In other cases, a strip of land, 60-70 cm wide, along the side of the load bearing wall may be chosen for planting.
Planting the garden
The planning of a roof garden should nearly be similar to the one on the ground, but with limited features, like lawn, flower bed, edge, rockery, lily pool, fountain, arch, bower, lath house and the like. Other features, like statue, sundial, aquarium, mini-zoo, etc., may be added as variety. Garden lights and music set up enhance the charm of the garden. Small trees, small and medium shrubs and climbers may be grown in appropriate locations. But features like hedge, shrubbery border and big trees have little place in a roof garden.
Gardening
The soil mixture for roof garden should be prepared by mixing equal parts of garden soil and cow dung manure. Leaf mould should be a welcome alternative to cow dung for its light weight and fluffy nature. Layout of the garden should be delineated on the roof with powdered lime and the soil mixture should be spread 15-20 cm thick, leaving the paths lined with bricks. Bricks should be held together through cementing. A gap of 5mm between two bricks should be left approximately at every 50 cm length to act as drainage hole. The soil mixture of the beds should be held back from draining out through these holes by spreading a double layer of close-knit nylon screen along the inner side of the brick lining.
One kilogramme (kg) of oil cake, preferably from neem (Azadirachta indica), mahua (Madhuca latifolia) or karanj (Pongamia pinnata) seeds, one kg of bone meal and 0.05 m3 of small charcoal bits should be worked in every 10m2 of the newly prepared beds. The pH of the soil mixture should be maintained between 6.2 and 6.8.
Enclosure
In Indian cities, sparrows, crow, squirrels, etc., often damage the leaves, flowers and berries in a roof garden. Care should be taken to keep these enemies away. Construction of an overhead framework 2.5-3.0 m high, preferably of galvanized iron pipes overlaid with nylon net, makes a durable solution of this problem. Stakes with their lower ends fixed in the roof soil and upper ends tied with the overhead iron pipes may be used to support plants of the roof garden, where necessary. To check the harmful effect of wind, which often poses serious problem for plants in the roof garden, particularly on a tall building, a wind break screen may be erected on the windward side. This screen may be prepared by training suitable climbers on a wire net stretched vertically on strong poles along the desired side.
Vertical Garden
Preparation of vertical garden
Steps

1. Build a 2 foot square by 11 inch high box from redwood, cedar, or pressure treated 2 x 6s. Screw 8 foot pressure treated 2 x 2s at the center and one corner in back, and 6 foot 2 x 2s at the other corner and 18 inches from the back on both sides.
2. Pre-drill, glue and screw 1 x 2s every 6 inches, starting at the top of the box. Extend the 1 x 2s at least an inch beyond each 2 x 2 to minimize the danger of splitting.
3. Add platforms by screwing on 3 foot 1 x 2s, then screwing on 1 x 2s laid flat to create a miniature deck.
4. Add one more 6 foot long 2 x 2 in the center at the front, and screw it to the crosspieces.
5. Add a 1 x 4 crosspiece at the top of the two longest 2 x 2s. Attach a bird house to the crosspiece.
6. Hang a bird feeder from a curved metal hanger attached to the side of the vertical garden.
7. Fill the box with good soil, then plant climbing plants and train them up the lattice. Add other plants in pots and hanging baskets.                    

            SPECIAL TYPES OF GARDENS II - WATER GARDEN AND BOG GARDEN
Water Garden

“Planned planting of aquatic and semi aquatic plants in and around pool is known as water gardening”. The reflections of the sky and the plants on the water surface, little waves passing in parade with gems of sunbeam on their crest, the movement of fishes in water, all give us a very pleasant and happy feeling. A water garden may be large (or) small depending upon the size of the garden of which it is a part. It may be natural (or) artificial / informal (or) formal.
i) Informal pool
Those who are fortunate enough to have a shallow pond (or) a natural depression holding sufficient water and not drying up in the summer (or) over flowering too much in rains, thus maintaining more (or) less a constant level, can start their water garden conveniently in such a pool. These types of pools are informal and so more natural. The curves and bends of such pools must be graceful and artistic and merge with the natural landscape.
The base of such ponds is made impervious to water by the ‘puddling’ method. This can be achieved by importing clay and laying it to a depth of about 30-45cm at the bottom. Puddling consists of pummeling the wet clay with feet, or preferably with a rod. At this stage the clay becomes impermeable to water. The pond will be used for planting true aquatics such as lotus, water lilies, etc, where as in shallow waters near the banks bog plants are planted.
ii) Formal pool
The formal pool need not be situated in a low lying area; rather it should form a main feature of the garden and should be situated in a prominent place of the garden.
Location of pool
            The pool should be far away from the tree, as they would cast their shade and drop the leaves into the pond; besides the roots may damage the walls.
Construction
            Where natural water body is absent, artificial concrete pools are constructed. The wall and bottom of such pools should be at least 15 cm thick and fully waterproof. The depth should be 1m. Provision should be made for an outflow pipe laid horizontally at the bottom for completely draining out the pool. The end of the outflow pipe should run well inside the pool and fitted with a stop cock. An inlet pipe is also inserted into the pool. When the pool is filled up the excess water would get out through the open end of the vertical branch of the drain pipe. An inner concrete wall, 70cm height, is then constructed 1m away and parallel to the wall of the pond and the space between the two walls is filled with manured soil in sloppy manner.
Testing
            After construction fill the pool with water and leave it for at least 4 weeks to test for any leakage and also to allow chemicals harmful to plant life and fish to dissolve out of the cement.
Planting
            The bottom of the pond is filled up to a depth of 20 cm with a mixture made up of 6 parts of garden soil, 1 part of cow dung manure, 125g of bone meal should also applied per sq. meter of the bottom. The lilies and lotus are planted directly in the soil and then water is filled in just to cover the crown of the plants. More water in filled in stages as the plants make new growth. In no case should the plants be submerged. As soon as plants starts growth water level should be increased a few cm per day. This will help the growth of the young plants.
Care of the pool
Aquatic plants need very little care. However some species grow very vigorously and need trimming to avoid overcrowding and smothering of weaker species. Sometimes the water of the ponds becomes green, popularly known as ‘blanket of weed’ covers the surface and side walls of the pool. Add 1kg potassium permanganate (or) 120g copper sulphate to every 24,000 litres of water.
Plants for water garden
A) Surface flowering Aquatics
Nelumbo lutea-American lotus
Nelumbo nucifera-Indian lotus
Nymphaea sp-Water lily
Victoria regia
B) Oxygenators
Elodea canadensis
Vallisneria spiralis
C) Floating plants
Eichornia crassipes
Lemna gibba
Marsh (or) Bog Garden

A pond is not an essential feature of any bog garden, but, if there is any adjacent pond, the overflow, the over flow water can be used to keep the marsh garden moist. The main criterion of a marsh garden is to keep it moist and in a swampy state all throughout. For this reason, the site of the marsh garden should be low lying where the surface drainage water will collect naturally.
The whole area intended to be developed into marsh garden is dug up to a depth of 60cm and a thin larger of clay, 10-12cm deep, is placed at the bottom to form the base of the marsh garden. Then a 12cm layer of large stones are placed over this to ensure that the water in the marsh does not become stagnant. The rest of the hallow is filled with a compost of garden loam suffer from drought and be kept sufficiently moist by a trickle of water at the same time avoiding stagnation. All parts of the marsh garden are made accessible by laying paths of rough stones (or) bricks.
Plants for marsh garden
Marsh plants can be categorized into three broad groups.
A. Plants which love 5-10cm of standing water and are termed as “Swamp dwellers”.
B. Plants which live on (or) a little above the waterline, with their roots standing in water-object soil.
C. Plants which grow above the saturated soil, but near enough to send their roots in search of water. eg., Acorus calamus, Iris sp., Alocasia sp.
SPECIAL TYPES OF GARDENS III - TERRARIUM
Terrariums
A Terrarium is an arrangement of plants together in one container, often with other things like rocks, stones or miniature figures and items. Sometimes the goal of a terrarium is just to create a pleasing arrangement of plants and other times the goal is to create a miniature world. Terrarium planting is a specialized part of home gardening, but an interesting one. A great many woodland plants which prosper in their natural environments fail to grow at all in the

house due to the lack of moisture in the air. Terrariums provide this humid atmosphere and allow you to bring the forest plants home. The theory behind the terrarium is that in a closed container the moisture which the plants take up through their roots and transpire through their leaves is condensed and eventually returns to the soil again, keeping the plants watered and at the same time keeping the air within the container at a point below saturation.
History of terrariums
The bringing of the art of the terrarium is generally credited with a man called Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward. This came about with the publishing of his book called "On the Growth of Plants in Closely Glazed Cases" which he published in 1842. The second edition of this book was published in 1852 and is readily available in the public domain. In the preface to his first edition he cites an earlier reference where he wrote a letter that was published in the "Companion to the Botanical Magazine" which was published in the May, 1836 issue. He also gives credit to an author named Mr. Ellis who published an article about growing plants in closed cases in an article in "Gardeners Magazine" in September of 1839. The publication of the "On the Growth of Plants in Closely Glazed Cases" is considered to be the first substantial work that outlines the theory and keeping of terrariums.

Materials Required

It doesn’t take much to set up a terrarium: fine gravel or coarse sand, charcoal chips, synthetic fabric (nylon) or screen to act as a soil separator, and potting mix appropriate to the plants used. If you wish to add a decorative touch, you can cover the soil with coloured stone, bark chips or ground cover plants.
Containers to use
The originality of a terrarium depends on the type of container you use, the plants you choose and the way you arrange them. Any glass container can serve as a terrarium, provided that it is transparent. You can recycle a large glass jar, a fish bowl or an old aquarium. Alternatively, there are some very attractive containers made of wood and glass or plastic available on the market. Terrariums do not require drain holes so, unlike other planting containers, holes are not necessary at the bottom of the container.  If you are thinking of starting your own terrarium you will probably find that you have all the material and equipment you need around the house. Fish tanks, especially those that are not too big and unwieldy, make very good terrariums. All you need for them is a glass top. If you are going to start from scratch, you can build your own container using a flat, low sided box for the bottom, and fitting it with glass sides which can be taped together, and a glass top. Although the theoretical airtight terrarium would have no openings whatever, it is safer to provide the container with several drainage holes so that you avoid the risk of over watering and rotting the roots of your plants. If you use a large brandy glass or some other container for which drainage holes cannot be provided, then you must be extra careful that there is a good layer of drainage material (pebbles, gravel, crocking, etc.) at the bottom, and that the soil is sprinkled with charcoal.
Soil mixes/ additives
Use clean, sterilized peat moss based soilless mix with vermiculite or perlite to enable the soil to hold moisture and oxygen. There should be an initial layer of gravel for drainage (one part gravel to two parts soilless mix). Add charcoal to absorb odour (one tablespoon per cup of drainage). In a small terrarium, omit the gravel and use charcoal. Soil separator can be used to keep the layer of charcoal apart from the soilless mix. Use fibre glass drapery fabric, nylon tights, sheer drapery, screening (not metal) or landscape fabric. Use sand in a desert terrarium. Sand should be bagged, washed and free of salts. Leaf mold can be used for woodland soil mixes but should be sterilized. Limestone can be used, especially for desert terrariums. Bone meal can be used in desert terrariums; do not use fertilizer in the initial planting.
Watering, ventilation and sun
When your plants are all in position, the soil should be well watered. If you can do this in the kitchen sink or in the bathtub where you can give it a thorough wetting and then allow the excess to drain out, so much the better. The frequency with which terrariums must be watered after they have been started depends on how much ventilation they are given. Although opinions vary, it has been our experience that the plants will prosper if they are kept covered during the day and the top is partially slid off at night. If this system is followed, we think you will find that your terrarium garden will need watering only once every few months. Terrarium plants need sunlight, but in limited amounts. An east or west window will do the trick, or a south facing location, if there is a glass curtain between the window and the container.
Lighting
It's important that the plants receive bright, indirect or dappled light. While direct sun will usually cook or sunburn the plants, too much shade will cause stringy growth and poor colouration. Different plants have different needs, but a good starting place is to use four fluorescent tubes for a tank that is 12-14 inches wide. The length of the tubes should be as long as the tank. 50% Gro-Lux® plant lights and 50% cool white, placed alternating across the top are used. The lights should be barely above the tank cover and the plants from 4-7 inches below the lights. Spot lights put out more heat and less light and are not recommended. Natural sunlight can be used if it is filtered through a sheer fabric, white plastic or partially shaded by other plants that do not have large, broad leaves, (too dark). Watch your plants and adjust the light as needed. Spindly, thin and stretched growth indicates not enough light whereas pale yellow leaves with burned edges indicates too much light. For those of you with light meters: place the sensor in the tank and under the cover. When the sun or lights are illuminating the terrarium, an average candlepower runs from 500-800 using natural light, and from 400-600 using the above fluorescent lights. High Pressure Sodium and Metal Halide are usually at 600-850 foot candles. These general guidelines may need to be adjusted according to what you are growing. In any case, do not let the lighting run the terrarium temperature above 95°F.
Location
Location of the terrarium will play a part, too. If it will be in a sunny place, succulents may work best. A succulent is a water retaining plant that does well in arid conditions (e.g., jade plant, Christmas cactus, sedum). If the terrarium will have a lot of shade and moisture, in a bathroom for instance, then ferns and mosseswill most likely be a good choice.
Terrarium tools
Some tools and terrarium supplies to plant your terrarium, especially if it has a small or narrow mouth.

1. Tweezers and long sticks can be used to dig holes, move items and support plants while they are being planted.
2. A long, thin spoon will be helpful in placing soil and drainage material in the container.
3. If a container with a very small opening is used, make a funnel from paper or aluminum foil for placing soil into the container.
4. Household scissors are handy for pruning plants before they are planted.
5. An atomizer or bulb type sprayer will be useful for spraying and watering plants in the terrarium.
6. A stick with a wire loop on the end is handy for lowering plants into large terrariums with small tops.

Terrarium-work to be done
Laying the groundwork                                                                                               

The way you place the soil at the bottom of the terrarium is extremely important. It should always be well drained. Start out by placing large pieces of concave crocking over each of the drainage holes to prevent the soil from leaking out. Then add an inch or so of good drainage material. Follow this with another layer of a couple of inches of a good potting mixture, such as those that can be bought in a garden supply store. It should be filled in firmly, but not tamped down too tight. The soil should be slightly damp, but not soaking wet. Then place the

plants, which should be ready nearby, by digging small holes large enough to accommodate their balls of earth in a pleasing arrangement.
Plants to grow
In addition to lichens and mosses, a good many plants which grow in the open air of your living room will prosper as well in miniature form in the terrarium.

 Low light plants

Moderate light plants   

Bright light plants

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